Week 31: E

Le ELEZIONI.  Sunday and Monday the elections for regional posts were held.  64% of the population voted, which is actually a huge decline from earlier years when over 90% of the population used to vote.  Voting here is not easy. Look at the choice of political parties (appearing on the bottom row of the poster):

On the other hand, at least in this small town, voting is a nice social event. You go to mass on Sunday morning, and when mass is over you cross the piazza and go vote in the school. On the way, you get to greet some neighbors that you haven't seen for awhile.

I was amazed when I came across this campaign literature for the Lega Nord. Yes, this is a far-right political party, but I wouldn't call them fringe by any means.  I can't see this artwork flying in the U.S. Can you? (Work must stay here! Enough with production in China and Turkey! With us, work remains in Piemonte! We are the only ones who side with the people!) 

I don't think I've seen these types of caricatures since World War II-era propaganda.

CIGLIANO -- Redemption?

After being hounded, berated, mocked, chastised, and ridiculed for two weeks, I've been forced to post different (hopefully better) pictures of Cigliano.

Here is the glorious campanile, with the main square in front of it.

Here is another view of the piazza centrale, with the municipal building behind it.

And the front of the main church, built between 1791-1820.

Mamma Loredana, mi perdoni adesso?

A walk to Moncrivello

I took advantage of the beautiful spring weather to visit Moncrivello, the neighboring town. Just about a 30-minute walk away, it is nestled on the one little hill in the area. The castle was closed, but I did get a picture of this castle-like tower.

A 16th-century church, one of about five that I saw in this small town.

A nice campanile -- part of the main church.

And, of course, a deserted street. I don't know if people see me coming and they all hide, or if I just choose odd times to visit towns, but on my little walk I came across about 10 people out and about. Maybe there was an important soccer game on TV?

Buona domenica! (Happy Sunday!)

Week 30: D

D is a little random this week.

Of course, there is the DUOMO in Milan.

Then, there is the greatest author, living or dead, of all time periods, of the East or the West: DANTE.

I so regret that I didn't take pictures of all the DOLCI that I ate in Naples, but when I first arrived I had no idea how famous Naples was for its sweets, nor how many of them I would eat in the span of three days. Neverthless, the cream-filled sfogliatelle were melt-in-your-mouth delicious, as was the zeppola, a specialty for father's day. The biggest surprise was the baba'. It was described to me as soft inside, and from the looks of it, I was expecting something like angel food cake. Well, I took a bite and -- SURPRISE! -- it is a soft cake infused with rum. Now, that is the way to start your morning -- rum cake and espresso. No wonder I liked Naples so much! 

In lieu of a picture of the DOLCI, here is something that Naples is even more famous for, its pizza.  This is my favorite, a pizza quattro stagioni (artichokes, prosciutto, mozzarella cheese, and mushrooms). And, yes, this pizza is for one person.



One other note: Naples is also known for its fried antipasti. Try this one when you need some comfort food: fried balls of macaroni. Just a little rich.

Week 29: CASTELLI

A few CASTELLI from my trips to Milan and Naples. First, Milan, where I (and about 1,000 schoolchildren) visited the Castello Sforzesco. Built in 1450, it used to house the ruling family of Milan.

Then, Naples. Home to three important CASTELLI. In the distance you can see the New Castle or  Maschio Angioino, as seen from Castel Sant'Elmo. For any opera lovers, right next to the large Galleria is the Teatro San Carlo, the oldest (1737) active opera house in the world.

They started building the New Castle in 1279. So, what then, is the old castle? Il Castel dell'Ovo (Egg Castle). The Normans started building the castle on this site in the 12th century, although important religious and political buildings had been located there since many centuries before Christ. This is a view of the castle from my friend's terrace. Grazie, amica mia!

Most astonishing for me, who has spent most of my tourist time in Florence, is that the entrance to these castles was FREE! Actually, most astonishing was that next to the castle were fishermen in their boats wearing swimming suits. Yes, it is hard to believe, but warm weather might actually be arriving!!!

Happy (Italian) Father's Day!

March 19th (it is St. Joseph's saint's day) is Father's Day in Italy. Dad, in case I forget in June, Happy Father's Day. Hope Sherron, Cole & Company make it a great weekend for you.  Rock Chalk!

CUCINE: A word from my sponsor

Are you thinking about renovating your CUCINA? Are you engaged and shopping for that perfect first CUCINA to share with your loved one? If you are looking for a high-quality, custom kitchen, made with the greatest craftsmanship in Italy .... nay, Europe .... then come to Cigliano for all your kitchen needs.

A sample modern look:

Or, if you prefer a traditional style:

How about this gray look to make me happy?

Not looking for a cucina, you say? We can also satisfy all of your furniture needs. Look at this great deal:

How about a great investment opportunity? Anyone interested in buying some commercial space in the fertile Po Valley?

Week 29: More C's

The newspaper columnist Beppe Severgnini wrote about his experiences living in the US in his book Ciao, America. He observed that one of the 50 reasons to love America is its cemeteries that are more like parks than resting places for the dead. Well, compared to Italian CIMITERI, what do you think?

CANESTRELLI (a specialty of this town) made of CIOCCOLATO.  I have made myself so sick on these in the past that you would think that I wouldn't want to eat them anymore, but when I walked into the bakery this morning and smelled them, I just couldn't resist.

COLORI PRIMAVERILI: Even though snow is predicted for this weekend, you can still find some signs of spring around the town.

Can't have a C week in Italy without CAFFE'!  This is a nifty little coffeemaker that makes bar-like coffee (you get the best coffee in bars), but this coffeemaker is small enough that you can have it in an office.  (Sorry, I can't flip the picture on the computer I'm working on.)

Week 29: CIGLIANO

CIGLIANO, the self-proclaimed CENTRO del mondo (center of the world). Cigliano is a town of about 4,600 lying in the province of Vercelli in the region of Piemonte. And the next time you eat risotto made of arborio rice, you have the great farmers of Cigliano to thank.

The red rooftops:

La piazza centrale:

The grand arcade. If you were in Bologna or Torino, this arcade would extend for blocks and blocks, but this is the entire grand arcade of Cigliano.

A little street corner:

La CHIESA:

I was told not to include this picture because it makes Cigliano seem too run down and desolate, but I said that I thought it was evocative. (Anyway, know that this was added under protest.)

B: BAGNA CAUDA

When I was 17 years old I was an exchange student in Piemonte, Italy. While there, and on my many successive visits, I NEVER ate bagna cauda, a specialty of the region. Now, not eating bagna cauda is like living for a year in Kansas City and never eating barbeque--shocking and, yes, a little shameful.  Well, 23 years later, this shameful gap in my Piedmontese experience has been closed. (Now, all I have to do is speak the local dialect, learn how to drive a stick shift, root for la Juventus, and avoid any air currents or drafts like the plague and I will move even closer to being a true Piemontese.) The season was right and, most importantly, my carissima sorellina was willing to make the dish. Grazie!

La bagna cauda is kind of like a fondue, except instead of cheese, the sauce is made out of anchovies, olive oil, garlic, and cream. You heat up the sauce:

You put the sauce in these special holders (note the little tealight keeping it warm):

Then, instead of dipping just bread into the sauce, you dip a variety of vegetables (cabbage, fennel, beets, potatoes, celery, peppers, etc.):

The next day, you heat up a little of the remaining bagna cauda and use it as a sauce for your pasta. BUONA!!

Week 28: B

The BIG B is yet to come (Saturday night). No, it is not Berlusconi, although it does seem like he has been around for the last 23 years, nor is it a BACIO. A hint, it is a piemontese specialty. In the meantime, here are some more B's.

The view from the BALCONI of the apartment on the Italian Riviera (about 30 miles from Monte Carlo).

Some gentlemen playing BOCCE.

Here is a BARCA in a little square around the corner from the apartment.

Week 27: A (again)

Ciao! sono ARRIVATA in Italia. Here is a view of the ALPI from my bedroom window.

A quick, three-hour trip to the south (fortunately, not in this AUTOMOBILE):

...and all of a sudden, we are surrounded by tropical vegetation and ALBERI:

AL LAVORO. And you ask me why I don't want to have an 8-5 job in a cubicle when this can be my office in Italy? (Yes, that is the Mediterranean Sea and, yes, I am aware how lucky I am.)

"B" is going to be BIG. Something I've been waiting for for 23 years.

Return to X

XI'AN. Home of the terracotta warriors. As the self-proclaimed eighth wonder of the world, it is a must-see. I'm so happy that I went yesterday when the kids had just returned to school after the Spring Festival and the tourist season was not in full swing. I had the place to myself. I'm sure that it was quite a different experience from the summer when the average temperature is 100 degrees and it is packed with people.

A highlight of the trip: I saw the farmer who found the site while digging a well. They only paid him $4 for the land back in the 1970s, but now he gets about a $300 stipend every month. For that amount, he has to show up at the museum and autograph books. He must be the most famous farmer in the world, right?

Some amazing facts:

1. Approximately 8,000 warriors and horses

2. Dating from 210 b.c.

3. Archeologists believe that many sites still haven't been unearthed 

4. All the the figures were painted at one time

5. Every figure has different facial features, facial hair, and outfits; they represented soldiers, archers, generals, musicians and acrobats

6. The project was completed in less than 15 years

7. The detail! The back of this archer even has treads on the bottom of the shoes

How was it kept a secret for so many years? After finding a mound of human remains, archeologists believe that the specialized craftsmen working on the project were burnt alive.  And you thought your boss was bad.

Red Lantern Festival

To mark the end of spring festival (a misnomer, to be sure, as I woke up this morning to cars trying to make their way up our icy, snowy hill), there are even more celebrations and FIREWORKS.

If you ever see a Chinese person on the Fourth of July who looks particularly sad or particularly smug, I know why. Last night I saw, by far, the best fireworks display ever. It lasted for 30 minutes and for every single minute of it I thought it had to be the grande finale. Fountains of lights going off on the ground, all sorts of beautiful combinations of different things going off over the sea. It was beautiful. Then, afterward, regular people set off fireworks in the street that would be the headline fireworks for a small town in America, I'm sure. Sorry, America, but you don't hold a (Roman) candle to China's fireworks.

Adorable Chinese kids

It's true! Chinese kids really do all look alike!

How about these two (who aren't twins)? Cute and cuter.

Lucy 3, Lucy 1 and Lucy 2.

Another Lucy (posing as a dancer)

These kids were instructed, "Be old!"

I guess at 25, he is an adorable kid. One of my many heroes who helped me out during my stay...ordering food in restaurants (via the phone), writing out instructions to cab drivers, making hotel reservations ... he even offered to come to my apartment at 6:00 in the morning to carry my suitcase downstairs (only after the manager said he would be happy to do it as well). I don't recall any of my past coworkers offering to do that.